Dyane Restoration Technical Issues

This page attempts to document the rebuild of a Citroen Dyane and problems encountered. I've included entries for all issues that stopped me in my build. Some were simple, some took a while to resolve. By documenting them here, future builders may be able to save some thinking time.

1..Seat Box Ends
2..Rear Inner wheel arches
3..Inner sills
4..Outer sills
5..Boot floor and surround
6..Windscreen Surround
7..Rear Bump Stops and Seat Belt Mounts
8..Jacking Points
9..Lower seat-box sections




All of the Dyanes I've come across have severe rot between the C-post and the inner rear wheel arch. There's nothing for it here but to dismantle everything and fold up new sections. Usually, the C-post is good enough to keep as far down as the door striker.

There's nothing tricky here apart from the curve at the bottom of the post onto the sill. I've built this as a straight angle but with a separate curved flange to take the door seal. Beware, that the original C-post is not straight, but has a kink in it and runs more vertical towards the bottom. The rear wing has got a straight leading edge however, so is held off the bottom of the C-post here with a top-hat section holding the fastening. This makes this area a potential mud trap with resulting rust issues.

One thing I have done there, is to take the rear inner wing and fold it over the outer edge of the c-post and back again. This will remove an 'open' edge through which rust can gain hold.



Seat Box Ends

I found it easier to cut out the entire end panel and remake it from scratch. Easy enough to make a cardboard template and transfer that onto 0.6mm sheet (recycled door skin)



Rear Inner wheel arches

I cut the offside one out as I thought it beyond repair. The new one was made by laying thin paper over the original and tucking and folding it until it took the curved shape of the wheel arch. This was then cut open so that it would lay flat on a sheet of steel, before being folded and welded to take the basic shape. It was finished with hammer and dolly to smooth the curves and welds and re-introduce the swage lines (mostly)

The nearside inner wheelarch had most of it trailing edge missing. This time, I cut it back to sound metal and let in a new oversized section, only trimming it when the C-post was finished.



Inner sills

Made in one piece out of 1mm sheet. Needs to be slightly kinked at the B-post. The seat-belt mounting plate needs a recess in which to fit (beat it into shape with a hammer and a block of steel). Weld the seat-belt mount in before attaching it.



Outer sills

Made into pieces out of 1mm sheet. The back end of the sill incoporates the seat-belt mount whilst the front end technically ends at the A-post.

I've extended the outer sill beyond the A-post right along the A-panel and built the jacking points into them. Joining the bottom of the A-panel to the outer sill is a bit tricky as the original was spot-welded in here and after dilling, there's not a lot of A-panel left to attach it well. Better to cut the bottom off the A-panel and seam weld it to the top of the sill.

I've drilled 'ports' in the end of each sill into which a sill plug can be fitted. I'll use these to waxoil the sills after painting.



Boot floor and surround

Lots of work replacing the lower inch of the entire boot floor area. The new boot floor needed trimmed a little to get it to fit neatly. Also, the replacement boot floor does not come with the the two bung holes as was in the original. Needed to shrink some of the swage lines in order to reproduce these holes.

The rear corners of the boot floor needed to be remade from sheet as the original had also rotted away.



Windscreen Surround

The windscreen outer sides and bottom were severely rotted. The only option here was to cut the bottom out of the windscreen surround and fit the SPOG replacement panel. Investigating the work needed to the bulkhead, I found three sizeable holes under the scuttle joint. This made removal of the scuttle neccessary which also made access to the top of the bulkhead a lot easier.

Having removed the old windscreen surround, I found severe rot in the windscreen inner section that runs across the car from A-post to A-post. As this was rotten in the areas that the new windscreen surround would attach, I took the decision to remove and replace this section. It could have been patched, but it seemed easier and quicker to make an entire new section. Whilst this was out, I stabilised the rust on the parcel shelf and welded up the area above the handbrake bracket, as this was starting to tear the parcel shelf.

I came cross a problem with the replacement SPOG panel in that I couldn't gt it to sit low enough to allow a vertical windscreen aperture of 395mm. Much head-scratching and measuring entailed and finally, I managed to get it to sit low enough on the bulkhead seam to get close to the 395mm goal.



Rear Bump Stops and Seat Belt Mounts

Removed both rear seat-belt mounts in order to repair the inner wheel arches properly. There's no real alternative, and puddle welding them back in again wasn't too hard.

The rear bump stops contain a designed-in mud trap which rots out the inner wing under the bump-stop bracket. I removed the bump-stop bracket, plated up the hole in the back (1mm steel), repaired the hole in the inner wing, and re-attached the bump stop.



Jacking Points

Both outer sills incoporate front and back jacking points. I built a 'pocket' in the underside of each sill and fully seam welded this before re-attaching the 'locating shoe' from the original jacking points. This 'pocket' is re-enforced above with a U-section bracket which attached to both the inner and outer sill to spread the load. Only time will tell if this is sufficient, but as it's all in 1mm steel, it's vastly superior to the original 'open' pocket design.



Lower seat-box sections

Both lower seat-box end sections had rotted out. I took the decision to remake these in a single sheet of steel and not have the seperate long narrow section at the outer edges. Again, cereal packet templates to get the sizes right then folding out of recycled door-skins.




When designing the sills, I left a half-inch extra on the bottom of the outer sills so that once the floors were welded in, I could fold this etra half-inch back up the inside, over the inner sill and the floor flange. This was done once the gap was filled with seam ealer. This leaves the bottom of the sills without a joint through which water can travel and rust occur.